Simplicity 1773, PART I (Medieval Style/Snow White and the Huntsman)

I decided that I was going to learn how to sew, dammit. I can do simple things like pajama pants, blankets, cloaks, and basic doll clothes, but I have never sewn an actual garment. For Christmas this year I wanted a grown-up sewing machine-one that will do zippers and button holes and everything. I got my wish, so I had no more excuses.

Bug asked me if I would make the costume on the left. She and Monkey are writing a screenplay and this would be perfect for her character, she told me. Uh, sure.

I've never succesfully installed a zipper. Of course, I didn't have a zipper foot on my old sewing machine, which made things considerably more difficult. But do you see this costume? It has a zipper, BONING, and those sleeves!  Professor Pincushion to the rescue!! I would not have been able to make this without these how-to videos.

The fabric store had a sale on Simplicity patterns, so I picked it up for $1. They also had one heck of an end of the year sale going on. Bug chose dark green satin for the under tunic, and brown microsuede for the outer dress. The fabric, notions, and trims for both pieces cost less than $50!

Even with the video help I had some challenges. First, Bug's measurements did not perfectly correspond to the sizes on the envelope. Since this is a fitted garment I probably would have been better off going with a size smaller. Once I figured that I out I was already knee deep in this project. I thought about making a muslin version first but when I looked at all those pieces I decided against it. Big beginner mistake.

It would have been much faster and easier to make the muslin and figure out all the problems than to redo the side seams(twice!) and rip open the beautiful seam on the shoulder strap to take it in. The strap looked like something out of Frankenstein when I was through. Luckily the ruffled trim covered up my butchery. The back of the undertunic gaped out about 3 inches where the top of the zipper should be and I had to figure out how to fix it. I later read pattern reviews and it seems to be a problem with the design, but choosing the wrong size certainly didn't help. I took it in at the back seam before installing the zipper. Yes, I put in a zipper! It isn't the prettiest job, but it does function. For a first try, it's not bad. And since it doesn't show once the over dress is on, I decided not to worry about the fact that it isn't perfectly even.

I wisely measured Bug's arms and cut smaller sleeves.  It was still too long, but during one of a dozen fittings Bug asked for a design change to the sleeves, which turned out to be very easy and, I think, improved the look of the dress. It also made the length an advantage. The pattern calls for seven buttons on each sleeve at the wrist, but she discovered that if we just put in the upper 4, the lower sleeve would flare out. The inner sleeve is not designed to show. If I had made this in muslin I would have realized this and lined the entire lower half of the sleeve instead of just part of it, as the pattern dictates. I removed the remaining three button loops, closed the seam again, sewed on the upper four buttons, and the sleeves did look pretty cool.

Bug's sleeve design

The ruffled trim covers the butchered shoulder straps.

Bug wanted the uneven hem shown in the photograph.

This pattern was apparently inspired by the movie Snow White and the Huntsman. I heard it wasn't very good but I might have to watch it just for the costumes.